CQCG folks I'm sorry to take up the space with this reply.
Mr. Lee-sir I appreciate your feedback, really do. I think we are talking same language, but you with sign language and me with smoke signals.
"The six in one knife that would be used to make other tools to replace itself in the field does not make any sense"-you say.
->School of thought-in primitive living, you MAKE TOOLS. A knife makes a working platform to build primitive tools...and another knife. 1-knife makes wooden tools 2-knife makes knapping tools to make stone knives and axes 3-knife makes many tools (incl fire) to make metal knives.
-> TOOLS BUILT FROM STEEL KNIFE BY ME
-flint knapping tines from antlers, billets from hardwoods, pelt cloth from squirrel, cordage
-stone knives as draw knife, thumb knife, drop point knife, makes bone and wood handles
-cordage from bark on trees
-fire hardened spear tips, fishing spear bone tips (boiled bone then carved), throwing sticks, self bows, arrows, atlatls, etc.
-wood mallets for pounding, hammering
-axe handles, hoe handles, shovel handles, tools to be used to forge knives
-camp vise, tongs
-bone hide scarpers, wood stretchers, racks
-bone saws, wood hand drills with stone tips
-food bins, baskets, etc.
There's more but I think this makes a point that knife makes other tools to "replace knife uses" All these tools end up "replacing" the knife one way or another. If your ONE knife can take the beating of the above chores by itself for about a month at a time and not break and be able to sharpen properly, then you should just carry that one knife. By the way, what is it so I can get one! Personally I know of NO knife (incl Tracker) that can take that kind of beating day in day out year after year. If you are talking a weekend get away, not a lifestyle, then OK your one knife will suit you fine. Just have it tethered to you and pray you don't lose or break it.
From what I know, a camp knife should do the following:
-chop and scrape with a rounded edge
-split wood with a round edge using log hammer on back of knife (all knives have to pass this test to be in my pack).
-pry bark off large tree with thick blade (this is a mandatory test for me too, using log hammer on back of blade)
-carve wood with carving edge
-drill and stab with point edge
-gut and round with gut hook edge (or use point)
-saw and notch wood and bone with saw edge
Look at the manual for Tracker knife and let me know if it does these chores. Basically that was the reasoning behind the design from Tom Brown. It does these things pretty well, but like I (and Tom) said before, NO knife is a "Ultimate Camping Championship Knife" and I think that kind of thinking is plain stupid, a good sign of the untrained. The knife was never claimed to be the end all solution to survival knives. It gives you an idea of what a survival knife should do. If you think this knife is not a survival knife, then show me a better survival knife that does what this can do.
http://trackertrail.com/trackerknife/TrackerKnifeManual.pdf"In general the knife is way to big to be skinning small game with, cutting up birds with and I wont even bother with its uselessness conserving fish. I guess if you were tanning a hundred buffalo hides one could make a silly argument that it is a good flesher but anyone who's ever bothered to flesh large hides knows its done on poles with big dull edges so even that argument would end in failure."-you say
Well, the smaller Tracker 2 is what I've been talking about. I agree the Tracker 1 is too big. I think of Tracker as a backup workhorse. Tracker 2 is overall 9.5", blade 5", thick 3/16". That's it. Small chores are easy with use of thumb directly behind 2" blade section. Caping and food prep is done with index finger extended to tip of blade, like you would if you were using a bone knife. Easy with index finger backing the blade. The "hook edge" on the Tracker is not a great gutter, that is why you use the tip backed by finger with edge toward you. Simple like a bowie, buck or whatever knife.
When did you ever flesh out a hide to remove fascia tissue, meat and hair using poles and a dull edge? I don't know there chief...Buffalo hides were staked to the ground to flesh out, not racked or on poles. Don't know about Tatonka, but for deer/antelope I use one large fleshing beam leaning low on tree and scrape toward me with a rounded (hoe shaped) scraper held 90deg to hide, sharp edge not dull but at 90 to prevent cutting hide. Tracker blade rounded edge is very doable, but reinforcing with a clamp handle to get right pressure is recommended.
You know Mr. Lee, none of this matters anyway, just glad to hear you have learned primitive ways, help keep them and those who teach them alive! We will disagree on things but I appreciate your posts because it helped me to record the tools and jobs of knife. Take care,
JC